🔗 Share this article

Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled near the top among these food titans is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” states the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater significance of this culinary honour.